Yamato is an indispensable material when talking about the Brooklyn Museum.
It was announced in 2004 and has produced various products.
“Why did we choose Wagyu beef?”
Introducing what we consider to be the best materials.
Going back to more than ten years ago.
Exhibiting at MIPEL, an exhibition of bags and leather accessories held twice a year in Milan, Europe, was a major turning point for us.
This is the 82nd time MIPEL has been held, and this is the first time a Japanese brand has been exhibited.
It was a great honor, and that's why it was such a weighty invitation.
“What are the leather accessories that can only be made in Japan and express the quality that is unique to Japan?”
We have always maintained our commitment to "MADE IN JAPAN," but we also felt that we needed something more than that.
After careful consideration, we arrived at the existence of Wagyu beef.
Currently, we rely on imports for most of the ``raw hides'' that are processed into the ``leather'' used to make products.
“I wonder if it is possible to somehow do all the processes in Japan, starting from the raw leather?”
With this in mind, I traveled to various places every day to find the Japanese cowhide leather that Brooklyn was looking for.
What is the biggest feature of Wagyu beef?
It's in the "skin".
The key to creating this texture is the presence of the four seasons.
Although there are countries other than Japan that have four seasons, it is rare to find a country where you can feel such clear changes in climate, and the expressions of nature are so diverse and rich.
The skin of cows raised in such a natural environment slowly opens from spring to summer and slowly closes from autumn to winter. Through this gradual climate change, the skin becomes fine-textured, elastic, and extremely beautiful.
Similarly to human skin, Japanese people's skin is considered to be fine and beautiful around the world.
Another important thing is the existence of ``craftsmen'' who take great care in making each animal.
Dairy farmers work day in and day out from morning till night to raise their cows with great care.
Carefully brushing each cow's large body is a painstaking task, but it is an important task that not only removes dirt and bacteria, but also improves blood flow and maintains the body's physical condition. Because of this kind of careful consideration of the cows, there is less stress on the cows and the result is high-quality leather.
A technique was needed to turn the raw hide, which took so much time and effort, into "better quality leather."
``We want to make sure that the entire process is done in Japan, from the ranch to pre-tanning, post-tanning, dyeing, and finishing.''
The person who fulfilled our request was a tanner in Tokyo who has been specializing in tanning tanned leather for many years.
During many meetings,
``We want to make good products, but what the market actually wants is something that resembles an imported product.
The hardest thing is not being able to put the technology to use even though I have it. ”
There was a word.
"That's why I want to work with people who are trying to make good things."
For those of us who have been making things from scratch, we couldn't have asked for better words.
This conversation allowed both parties to express their true feelings and solidify their image.
Generally speaking, tanned leather gives an impression of being thick and hard.
However, the leather we want to make is one that is both ``elegant'' and has a ``Brooklyn-like color range.''
In order to reproduce the skin quality we were looking for, we repeatedly checked the process and gradually adjusted the finishing temperature through trial and error.
A distinctive feature is that when dyeing, we do a ``shintooshi''.
This is a method in which the dye is applied to the inside of the leather, and by dyeing the leather to the core, even if the leather is deeply scratched, the underlying layer will not be visible.
And in order to carry out the interlining, carefully selected leather must be used.
This is because it takes longer to put the leather in the dyeing process than normal dyeing, so it is necessary to select leather with excellent durability.
The next important step is the process called ``tsuki'' to adjust the texture of the leather.
This process is done by hand using a spatula called a steel, carefully adjusting the texture of each piece and making it even.
Nowadays, there are fewer tanners who perform this process.
It is a time-consuming, labor-intensive, and technically demanding process.
The texture, which can only be expressed through manual labor, is the basis of elegant, beautiful, and satisfying craftsmanship.
After preparing this base, we perform the final dyeing.
The preparation of the base is an essential step in order to fulfill our detailed request, ``I want it to have a color typical of Brooklyn, but with a leather-like look.''
This is because only when this groundwork is properly prepared will it be possible to achieve exquisite color.
The characteristics of the leather that Brooklyn handles are also reflected in the richness of the number of colors available. We have a collection of colors that will brighten up any scene and make even the people around you happy.
However, not just any color is fine;
- Colors that enhance a person's impression when used in a business setting
- Colors that complement each other even when holding various products
Only when these elements come together will it be adopted as the “Color of Brooklyn.”
Here, we will introduce the process until Yamato leather is completed.
1. “Tannin tanning”
This is a tanning method that uses tannins found in plants.
Currently, it is extremely difficult to procure high-quality Japanese cow hides, but we use tanned leather that can only be handled by this tannery, which has established its own route.
2. “Dyeing”
The crust (leather that has been tanned but has not yet been dyed) is put into the tyco and dyed.
In order to penetrate deeper into the fibers, it takes twice as long as regular dyeing. This is an original recipe researched for the Yamato series, including drum rotation speed, water temperature adjustment, and amount of dye.
3. “Dehydration”
Leather that has been post-tanned and dyed in Tyco absorbs a lot of water and swells, so excess water is removed using a special dehydrator.
Turn the handle of the machine to adjust the thickness of the leather and smooth out the wrinkles. Then let the leather dry.
4. “Tsuki”
After draining, each piece of leather is carefully brushed and the texture is adjusted one by one using a special tool called a ``steel''.
Nowadays, more and more places are using special presses, but the craftsmanship continues to be carried out with care and attention to detail.
The beauty of the product's surface will vary depending on how much time is spent on it.
After this, dry thoroughly in the sun.
5. “Oil adjustment”
After checking how well the dye is applied to the dried leather, we use a special compressor to carefully spray oil on both the front and back to achieve a uniform color.
Since the color of the leather changes depending on the amount of oil sprayed, we adjust the oil while assuming that the color will firmly set in the final process and the desired color will be achieved. Even small adjustments to the amount of oil due to individual differences in leather can be made based on the experience gained from working with various leathers.
6. “Iron”
After spraying the oil, the dry leather is finished by ironing it with a large iron.
Brooklyn leather is usually ironed once, but Brooklyn leather is ironed two to three times to make the surface smooth.
Brooklyn's idea of "good things".
That is,
“Things that incorporate the wisdom, hands, and passion of various people”
That's what we think.
