Special conversation between Chef Fumio Yonezawa and Masahiko Kusagaya
Chef Fumio Yonezawa x Masahiko Kusagaya
Special conversation
Although they work in different industries, they have many things in common, such as their passion as creators and their feelings for the next generation. In fact, it has been revealed that Chef Yonezawa and the Brooklyn Museum have the same "origin", a mysterious connection! In a rapidly changing society, the conversation allowed us to see various sides of the two, including ``creators, pioneers, contemporaries, and parents.''
■This time's partner
Chef Fumio Yonezawa
Born in Tokyo in 1980. After graduating from high school, he trained at a restaurant in Ebisu for four years before moving to the United States alone in 2002. Became the first Japanese sous chef at the main branch of the high-class French restaurant Jean-Georges, which regularly receives three Michelin stars. After returning to Japan, he worked as a head chef at a famous restaurant in Japan. In 2022, he became independent and opened his first owner restaurant “No Code” in Nishiazabu. In addition to his activities as a chef, he also engages in a wide range of activities from nutritional education to product development. He is the author of "Vegan Recipes" (Shibata Shoten).
■Meeting of Chef Yonezawa and Brooklyn
Kusagaya: Mr. Yonezawa first came to our house because of a mutual acquaintance, right?
Yonezawa: That's right. This person often comes to my shop, and 5 or 6 years ago, I saw a post on social media about him buying a new wallet, and I couldn't help but contact him and ask, ``Where did you buy it?'' Then he told me, ``It's the Brooklyn Museum.''
Kusagaya: It was an indigo-dyed crocodile.
Yonezawa: It was completely love at first sight. However, it was just out of reach for me at the time, so I vowed to buy it for my 40th birthday. Then, when I turned 40, I went to the Brooklyn Museum and happened to be there!
Kusagaya: Yes! I was surprised at that time!
Yonezawa: I actually saw the wallet, and not only the design but also the way the leather changed over time was really cool, so I decided once again to have them make something similar to this. So, a week later, I went back to the store and ordered. I've been waiting for half a year, and I've been looking forward to the finished product.
Kusagaya: Sorry for keeping you waiting...! But now, thankfully, there are some people who have been waiting for a little over a year for some items, so I'm very sorry.
Yonezawa: Is that so? But the more you wait, the greater the joy.
Kusagaya: It would be helpful if you could say that.
Yonezawa: I was really happy when I actually got it. Indigo-dyed crocodile that excites adults. Nowadays, electronic money has become more popular than in the past, so we don't use wallets much anymore, but when I take out my wallet, people often ask me, ``What kind of wallet is that?'' And moreover, it's often from people who know the difference, so I feel happy every time I hear that.
Kusagaya: I would be really happy if you could say something like that. It's worth it to continue to be particular about it.
Yonezawa: I think wallets and watches are the tastes of adult men. Choosing and using good items that can be used for a long time will enrich your soul.
Kusagaya: Since our founding, our concept has been to “cherish good things for a long time,” so we are honored that you feel that way.
Yonezawa: Also, when something is good, you want to keep buying it again. I was always impressed by the wallet, so when I decided to buy a new business card holder after starting my own business this year, I had no hesitation in buying one in Brooklyn. The timing was good, and there was only one business card holder in stock, so I decided to buy it immediately.
Kusagaya: I'm a little embarrassed to ask this, but what was it that you liked about it?
Yonezawa: The two items I currently own are a wallet and a business card holder, and I like the way they both have expressions. Kusagaya-san and I decided on the first wallet together after he showed me several indigo-dyed crocodile ones. The process was also a joy that I couldn't experience anywhere else.
Kusagaya: My motto is to create things that will lead to good results for our customers in their business. To put it simply, it's something that gets you excited. Especially when it comes to orders, we aim for the best tension!
Yonezawa: When your tension increases, your performance will definitely improve! I understand that there are many business users because they manufacture products with this idea in mind. Especially when it comes to ordering, people have different attachments. I used to have a habit of putting my wallet in my pants pocket, but I stopped doing that. I don't want the shape to change. I handle it with care (lol). By the way, Mr. Kusagaya, what made you start dyeing crocodile indigo?
Kusagaya: I wanted to share with the world something that can only be done in Japan. I thought the unique Japanese method of indigo dyeing was wonderful, and I was also curious to see if it would be interesting to try dyeing crocodile, which is the best material. It was about 15 years ago that I came up with this combination and tried making it.
Yonezawa: It's a very Japanese way of multiplication.
Kusagaya: The depth of blue in indigo dyeing cannot be achieved with any other method. Since I am running a leather brand in Japan, I felt that I had to share this wonderfulness with the world and convey the charm of Japan. That's why we're doing it in Japan, or what's the point?
Yonezawa: Food is the same in that it uses local ingredients to maximize expression. That's wonderful. I'm starting to like indigo dyed crocodile even more.
Kusagaya: Part of me wants to ``bring the charm of Japan to the world with indigo-dyed crocodiles!'' but I also want to ``see the smiles on people's faces the moment I hand over something I've made.'' That's why when I hear people say, ``Just owning it makes me feel good'' or ``It's an item I'm proud of,'' I really feel glad that I'm doing this job. The greatest motivation for manufacturing is to make customers happy. This is not limited to indigo-dyed crocodiles, but I think the fact that there are so many people who love our items is the significance of our work.
Yonezawa: I am the same way. The best motivation is seeing the happy reactions when I serve the food. It's nice to hear someone say, ``It's delicious,'' but I'm happiest when they say, ``It's fun,'' or ``I'm glad I came here.'' You can experience ``deliciousness'' elsewhere, but I think ``I'm glad I came here'' means that I was able to become a unique person among the people, so it may be the moment when I feel the meaning of my life as a chef.
Kusagaya: Since I am a craftsman, I think it is very important to be close to the customer, including during the manufacturing process, and Mr. Yonezawa's way of being close to the customer is truly amazing. "The hospitality is incredible." In all the photos posted on Instagram with the customers, not only the customers, but also Mr. Yonezawa's smile is shining brightly, and it has an amazing ability to make you think, ``This place is really wonderful,'' and ``I want to go here.''
Yonezawa: I'm humbled (lol).
Kusagaya: It’s almost here, right? The opening of the new store.
Yonezawa: July.
Kusagaya: I’m looking forward to it! By the way, what kind of concept do you have planned for the store?
Yonezawa: The restaurant is called "No Code," and as the name suggests, we don't follow discipline, rules, or conventional rules, but rather create a fun and creative restaurant with our own unique style.
Kusagaya: I get excited just listening to it!
Yonezawa: I hope this will be a place where I can show off the culmination of what I have learned, knowledge, and experience. Please look forward to it.
Kusagaya: I’ll definitely go!
■Men who loved Brooklyn
Yonezawa: Actually, I've always wanted to ask you this, but what is the origin of the name "Brooklyn Museum"?
Kusagaya: "Brooklyn" in New York. When my predecessor started his business at the age of 26, he was of a generation that admired things that were "Made in the USA." At that time, Japan's civilization was being updated with color TVs and cars and refrigerators being the same per household, but America was at the cutting edge of the world, and New York in particular was a sparkling place, as it was the epicenter of all kinds of culture. When our predecessor learned that it was not the people of Manhattan who made the glitter, but the people of Brooklyn, he decided that he could not lose to the frontier spirit of the people of Brooklyn who were opening up an era, and I heard that he chose the name ``Brooklyn'' because he wanted to ``become a pioneer in the leather genre'' in the Japanese fashion industry.
Yonezawa: After all, it’s named after “Brooklyn”! Actually, I was training in New York, but I had always lived in Brooklyn. I moved around three times, but I always stayed in Brooklyn because I liked the atmosphere of that city. So, for me, that city is a place where I could call it my starting point, and it's a city I have fond memories of where I gritted my teeth while feeling sad, and it was also a place where I took a big step forward as a chef.The sound of ``Brooklyn'' appeals to me, and I've been curious about the origin of the name for a long time.
Kusagaya: You must have cared about me that much (lol). Anyway, it's a happy coincidence. By the way, around 2002, we were doing business in Brooklyn, mainly OEM. After that, we decided to create a store where we could convey our thoughts, so we opened a physical store in Japan, so I might feel the same way as Mr. Yonezawa in the sense that this was the place before we took our first step in Japan.
Yonezawa: By the way, I was in New York in 2002.
Kusagaya Eh! amazing! This is a miraculous connection (lol).
Yonezawa: After graduating from high school, I trained in Japan for about four years, but one day I suddenly thought, ``I want to go to New York!'' and moved to the United States. Perhaps it's a feeling similar to the admiration Kusagaya-san's father felt. "From now on, it's New York!" Even though I've never been there (lol). So when I was 22, I rented a house in Brooklyn.
Kusagaya: It's no exaggeration to say that we all have the same origins (lol).
Yonezawa: It's connected. By the way, why did you call it "museum"?
Kusagaya: The name ``Brooklyn Museum'' embodies the idea that ``we want people to take their time and enjoy it as if they were visiting an art museum.''
Yonezawa: I see. If you ask me that, the atmosphere inside the store is definitely like a museum. It smells of calm, luxury, and culture. I love this feeling.
Kusagaya: I'm happy because I've received compliments many times today (lol). Thanks to you, this March marks 20 years since I started retailing.
Yonezawa: Congratulations. We need to celebrate!
Kusagaya: No, I'm just grateful for your patronage. Thank you for your continued support. I will make whatever you order from Mr. Yonezawa.
Yonezawa: But what if we have to wait about a year?
Kusagaya: That's right (lol). It's first come first served.
Yonezawa: That's good. I'll wait (lol).
Click here for indigo dyed crocodile products
In the second half of the next episode, the two, who have been in their respective industries for 20 years, will passionately discuss their thoughts on "work theory," "thoughts for the next generation," and "how to deal with society in the future." Look forward to it!
Edit by Ryuichi Takao
