"Yamato" is an essential material for talking about the Brooklyn Museum.
It was announced in 2004 and has produced various products.
“Why did you stick to Japanese beef?”
Introducing the best materials that we consider.
It goes back a dozen years ago.
It was a great turning point for us to exhibit at "MIPEL", an exhibition of bags and small leather goods held twice a year in Milan, Europe.
MIPEL is the 82nd time and the first Japanese brand exhibition.
It was a great honor, and that's why it was a heavy invitation.
"What is a leather accessory that expresses the uniqueness of Japan that can be done only in Japan?"
We've been through "MADE IN JAPAN" until now, but we also felt that we needed "something more".
As a result of careful thought, he arrived at the existence of Japanese beef.
Most of the “raw leather” used to make “leather” that makes products is currently imported.
"Isn't it possible to do all the processes in Japan from the raw leather?"
With that in mind, I went to various places every day to find the Japanese cowhide that Brooklyn wanted.
What are the main characteristics of Japanese beef?
It is in the “skin eyes”.
The key to creating that texture is the presence of the four seasons.
Although there are countries other than Japan that have four seasons, it is rare for a country to feel such a clear change in climate, and the expression that nature has is rich in variety. The skin of cows raised in such a natural environment slowly opens from spring to summer and closes slowly from autumn to winter. Through this gradual climate change, the skin becomes fine, elastic and very beautiful.
Human skin is also the reason why Japanese skin is fine and beautiful worldwide.
And one more important thing is the existence of "artisans" who spend a lot of time and effort.
Dairy farmers care for their cattle day by day, from morning till night.
Carefully brushing each large cow's body is a painstaking task, but it is an important task not only to remove dirt and bacteria but also to improve blood flow and improve physical condition. This kind of delicate consideration for cows reduces stress on cows and makes quality leather.
It was necessary to have the technology to finish raw leather, which has taken so much effort, into “better leather”.
"I want to stick to doing everything in Japan from the ranch to front tanning, rear tanning, dyeing, and finishing."
The one who fulfilled our request was Mr. Tanner in Tokyo, who has long specialized in tanning tanning tanning leather.
As we had many meetings,
“I want to make good things, but what the market really demands is something that resembles an import.
The hardest thing is not being able to make use of technology, even though it has technology. "
There was a word.
"That's why I want to cooperate with people who are trying to make good things."
It was a word that no one else can use, as we have been making things from scratch.
With this conversation as a starting point, we struck each other's real intentions together and solidified the image.
Nume leather is generally thick and hard.
However, the leather we want to make is leather that can be "elegant" and "developing the colors typical of Brooklyn Museum".
In order to reproduce the skin quality we want, we checked the process many times and tried trial and error while adjusting the finishing temperature little by little.
As a feature, when dyeing, we use "Shintoshi".
This is a method of "dying by putting dye inside the leather". By dyeing even the core, the base will not be visible even if the leather is deeply scratched.
And in order to do coreing, you must use carefully selected leather.
This is because it takes a longer time to put it in the tycoon than it does in normal dyeing and it takes a long time to rotate, so it is necessary to select leather that has excellent durability.
The next important step is the work of adjusting the leather texture called "tsuki".
By using a spatula called "Hagane", this work is done by hand, and the texture is carefully adjusted and made uniform.
There are now fewer tanners performing this process.
It is a process that requires time and effort and requires technology.
The texture that can be expressed only by doing manual work supports the foundation of elegant, beautiful and convincing manufacturing.
After making this groundwork, finish dyeing.
Until now, the groundwork preparation is an indispensable process in order to fulfill our detailed request that we want you to leave a look that looks like leather while having a color that looks like Brooklyn.
The reason for this is that if this groundwork is made properly, it will be possible to produce exquisite colors.
The characteristic of leather handled by Brooklyn is also reflected in the richness of the number of colors. We have created a range of colors that will color any scene and make people around you happy.
However, it does not have to be any color,
-Color that enhances the impression of the person by using it in the business scene
-Colors that complement each other when carrying various products
Only these are adopted as the "color of Brooklyn".
Here, we will introduce the process until Yamato Leather is completed.
1. "tannin tanning"
It is a method of tanning using tannin contained in plants.
Currently, it is very difficult to purchase high quality Wagyu raw leather, but we are using numen leather that can only be handled by this tanna, which has established its own route.
Put the crust (leathered and undyed leather) in the tycoon and dye it.
It takes twice as long as ordinary dyeing because it goes through the inner part of the fiber. This is an original recipe that we researched for the Yamato series such as drum rotation speed, water temperature adjustment, and dye amount.
The leather dyed and tanned with Tyco absorbs plenty of water and swells up, so use a special dehydrator to remove excess water.
Turn the handle of the machine to match the thickness of the leather and extend the wrinkles. Then dry the leather.
After draining the water, brushing while checking each leather, and using a special tool called "hagane" to prepare the skin of "one by one" leather.
Nowadays, more and more dedicated press machines are used, but the craftsman's hands are carefully growing.
The beauty of the surface when commercialized depends on how much time is spent.
After this, dry it in the sun.
5. "Oil adjustment"
After checking the condition of the dye in the dry leather, in order to obtain a uniform color, use a special compressor and carefully spray the oil on the front and back.
The color of the leather changes depending on the amount sprayed, so we will adjust the oil while assuming that the color will be firmly fixed in the final process and that the desired color will be obtained. Even the slight adjustment of the amount of oil due to the individual differences in leather can be made based on the experience value that has been confronted with various leathers.
After spraying with oil, dry leather is placed on a large iron to complete it.
Normally once, Brooklyn leather is ironed a couple of times for surface smoothness.
Brooklyn thinks "good things".
"Things that "wisdom" and "hands" of various people and "passion" enter
I think so.